说到世界上最著名的葡萄酒分级——波尔多1855分级，大家都耳熟能详。其实，在新世界，同样有一个非常权威的分级体系，那就是澳大利亚葡萄酒兰顿分级（Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine，以下简称兰顿分级），兰顿分级到现在已经成为澳大利亚最佳酒款指南。
日前，在上海由澳洲葡萄酒管理局主办的澳大利亚葡萄酒路演活动上，笔者专访了兰顿分级联合创始人、葡萄酒大师安德鲁•卡雅。
安德鲁•卡雅1984毕业于罗斯沃西（Roseworthy）大学酿酒专业。1993年获得葡萄酒大师（Master of Wine）资质，澳大利亚葡萄酒大师协会前任主席，国际葡萄酒评审。同时也是资深葡萄酒拍卖师，兰顿葡萄酒拍卖行联合创始人。他曾经与Lion Rock Film公司一起合作拍摄过一部关于波尔多及中国葡萄酒的纪录片《红色情结》“Red Obsession”。
兰顿分级背后有怎样的商业规律和价值？安德鲁•卡雅对于中国葡萄酒市场有何看法和建议？
兰顿分级第六版：从34款葡萄酒到139款
问：兰顿分级是从哪一年开始的，是和波尔多1855分级一样基本固定不变的，还是会定期更新？
安德鲁•卡雅：兰顿分级是由兰顿精品葡萄酒拍卖行于1989年首次建立，第一版名单中只有34款葡萄酒，随后每五年更新一次名单。（除了第二版，于1996年发布），直至2015年发布了最新的第六版名单，共有139款葡萄酒入选。名单中取消了前五版中的四级分级制度，改为三级，原有的第四等级Distinguished中的酒款被并入剩余三级中。
最新的兰顿分级中，共设三个级别，从高到低分别是Exceptional（至尊级），Outstanding（杰出级），和Excellent（优秀级）。
问：1855分级有61家酒庄，而兰顿分级已经达到了139款葡萄酒，未来这个数字是否还会增加？
安德鲁•卡雅：我也很认真地考虑过，对于这个数字要不要设天花板。不过，虽然1855分级只有61家，但是，兰顿分级的所有葡萄酒的产量，只占到1885分级里所有酒庄产量的22%左右。而兰顿分级本来就是定期按市场决定的，它会自己调整自己，我们只需要看数据说话。
一个完全根据葡萄酒市场表现的分级
问：要进入兰顿分级名单的葡萄酒需要具备什么样的条件？
安德鲁•卡雅：所有进入这份名单的葡萄酒必须满足两个基本条件：至少有10年的酿造历史，并在二级市场（酒庄直接购买之外的渠道，如私人收藏家，拍卖行等）有出众表现。这样的严格要求，正是依托于兰顿作为澳洲老牌的葡萄酒拍卖行，自1988年起积累下的拍卖数据。
作为澳大利亚最佳酒款指南，兰顿分级基于市场拍卖的需求以及交易记录，会考虑品牌名誉、酒质、陈年潜力和品牌故事等因素。
问：兰顿分级与世界上其它一些比较权威的评分系统相比，最大的区别在哪里？
安德鲁•卡雅：与许多分级系统不同的是，兰顿分级并不需要通过专门的品酒环节，也不是由哪位著名的“品酒大师”说了算，我们不喜欢独裁，而喜欢听取各方面意见，因此这个分级完全是根据葡萄酒的市场表现决定的，一款葡萄酒能否进入兰顿分级名单，与精品葡萄酒购买者对这款酒的需求高低直接挂钩，与产区整体表现，以及政治因素等毫无关联，是完全根据市场反馈制定的一份名单。其实，这与当年的1855分级有一些相似之处，但不同的是兰顿分级是针对特定酒款，而非酒庄，而且修订间隔也很短，更能反映市场的走向。
线上精品葡萄酒拍卖与线下的区别
问：您认为兰顿精品葡萄酒拍卖行和其他世界著名拍卖行有什么区别？
安德鲁•卡雅：首先，兰顿精品葡萄酒拍卖行有着更为广泛的选酒标准，除了拉菲、拉图、玛歌这样的法国名庄酒，我们对优质澳大利亚酒的选择比欧洲最大的葡萄拍卖行都要齐全。
在建立拍卖会之初，公众还没有形成杰出的澳大利亚品牌印象，在这些年拍卖的过程中，我们也是在进行澳大利亚葡萄酒的宣传和推广。兰顿分级从最初的34款到今天的139款，也说明了澳大利亚酒品质和知名度的总体提高。
另一点重要的区别就是我们对于网络完善地开发和应用，兰顿目前拥有世界上最先进的网络竞拍系统，而且我们还在不断更新系统，进一步缩短消费者与顶级葡萄酒之间的距离。
问：作为一个资深葡萄酒拍卖师，您觉得现场的葡萄酒拍卖和现在流行的线上葡萄酒拍卖最大的不同是什么？
安德鲁•卡雅：一个优秀的葡萄酒拍卖师，非常懂得对下面的竞拍人察言观色，调动气氛，犹如一场心理战，我初入拍卖这个行业的时候，非常羞涩，第一次只完成了100多个标的竞拍。而现在，好的时候，1个小时我能够竞拍完成1000多个标。而线上拍卖无法感受到现场气氛的热烈，因此，一般来说，线上拍卖的整体交易额会比线下拍卖少，当然，这并不妨碍真正的葡萄酒爱好者和收藏家的热情。
中国人需要一套自己的品酒词
问：未来是否会加强兰顿分级在中国市场的推广？
安德鲁•卡雅：中国是一个大市场，我们下一步肯定会加强在中国市场的推广，并且推出中文版的兰顿分级。但是其中涉及到的一个比较麻烦的问题就是，要征求每一个酒庄的意见，给他们的酒取出一个他们认可的中文名字。
问：对于中国市场你有什么看法和建议？
安德鲁•卡雅：我10年前就来过中国，现在每年都基本上会来2-3次，我发现，中国的葡萄酒消费者在选择上比以前更自信了。我觉得目前市场上最需要一套中国人自己的用来描述葡萄酒的品酒词，不要言必称黑醋栗、覆盆子，这样会妨碍葡萄酒走进普通消费者。
相关链接：
兰顿分级各级别含义
Exceptional（至尊级）：最稀缺，最受买家追捧的葡萄酒，代表了澳大利亚葡萄酒的最高品质，可以认为是澳大利亚的“一级庄葡萄酒”。
Outstanding（杰出级）：极受市场欢迎的葡萄酒，是澳大利亚葡萄酒质量的标杆之作，可以认为是澳大利亚的“超二级庄葡萄酒”
Excellent（优秀级）：葡萄酒二级交易市场上的抢手货，名望与品质皆不俗。
兰顿分级系统第六版全名单（按首字母顺序排列）:
EXCEPTIONAL（21款）：
PENFOLDS Bin 95 Grange Shiraz, South Australia
BASS PHILLIP Reserve Pinot Noir, South Gippsland, Victoria
BROKENWOOD Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz, Hunter Valley, New South Wales
CHRIS RINGLAND Dry Grown Barossa Ranges Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia
CLARENDON HILLS Astralis Syrah, McLaren Vale, South Australia
CLONAKILLA Shiraz Viognier, Canberra District, New South Wales
CULLEN Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River, Western Australia
GIACONDA Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, Beechworth, Victoria
GROSSET Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia
HENSCHKE Hill of Grace Vineyard Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia
HENSCHKE Mount Edelstone Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia
JIM BARRY The Armagh Shiraz, Clare Valley, South Australia
LEEUWIN ESTATE Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia
MOSS WOOD Moss Wood Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia
MOUNT MARY VINEYARD Quintet Cabernet blend, Yarra Valley, Victoria
PENFOLDS Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia
ROCKFORD Basket Press Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
SEPPELTSFIELD 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny, Barossa Valley, South Australia
TORBRECK RunRig Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
WENDOUREE Shiraz, Clare Valley, South Australia
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia
OUTSTANDING（49款）：
BALNAVES OF COONAWARRA The Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia
BANNOCKBURN Serré Pinot Noir, Geelong, Victoria
BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE E&E Black Pepper Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
BASS PHILLIP Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland, Victoria
BEST’S Thomson Family Great Western Shiraz, Grampians, Victoria
BINDI Block 5 Pinot Noir, Macedon Ranges, Victoria
BINDI Original Vineyard Pinot Noir, Macedon Ranges, Victoria
CAPE MENTELLE Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia
CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD VINEYARDS Rare Muscat, Rutherglen, Victoria
CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD VINEYARDS Rare Muscadelle, Rutherglen, Victoria
D’ARENBERG The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia
DALWHINNIE The Eagle Shiraz, Pyrenees, Victoria
DE BORTOLI Noble One Botrytis Semillon, Riverina, New South Wales
DOMAINE A Cabernet Sauvignon, Coal River Valley, Tasmania
GLAETZER WINES AMON-Ra Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
GRANT BURGE Meshach Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
GREENOCK CREEK Roennfeldt Road Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley, South Australia
GREENOCK CREEK Roennfeldt Road Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
GROSSET Springvale Riesling, Watervale, South Australia
HENSCHKE Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon, Eden Valley, South Australia
HOUGHTON Jack Mann Cabernet, Great Southern, Western Australia
JASPER HILL Emily’s Paddock Shiraz Cabernet Franc, Heathcote, Victoria
JASPER HILL Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria
KAESLER Old Bastard Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
KATNOOK ESTATE Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia
KAY BROTHERS AMERY VINEYARDS Block 6 Old Vine Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia
MAIN RIDGE ESTATE Half Acre Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
MAJELLA The Malleea Cabernet Shiraz, Coonawarra, South Australia
McWILLIAM’S Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon, Hunter Valley, New South Wales
MOUNT MARY VINEYARD Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria
NOON WINERY Reserve Shiraz, Langhorne Creek, South Australia
NOON WINERY Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Langhorne Creek, South Australia
PARINGA ESTATE The Paringa Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
PENFOLDS Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay, South Eastern Australia
PENFOLDS Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz, South Australia
PENFOLDS RWT Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia
PENFOLDS St. Henri Shiraz, South Australia
PETER LEHMANN Stonewell Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
PIERRO Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia
ROCKFORD Black (sparkling) Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
SEPPELT St Peters Grampians Shiraz, Grampians, Victoria
TAHBILK 1860 Vines Shiraz, Nagambie Lakes, Victoria
TYRRELL’S Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley, New South Wales
VASSE FELIX Heytesbury Cabernet blend, Margaret River, Western Australia
WENDOUREE Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley, South Australia
WENDOUREE Cabernet Malbec, Clare Valley, South Australia
WENDOUREE Shiraz Malbec, Clare Valley, South Australia
WENDOUREE Shiraz Mataro, Clare Valley, South Australia
YALUMBA The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia
EXCELLENT（69款）:
BEST’S Bin No. 0 Great Western Shiraz, Grampians, Victoria
BOWEN ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia
BY FARR Sangreal Pinot Noir, Geelong, Victoria
CASTAGNA Genesis Syrah, Beechworth, Victoria
CHARLES MELTON Nine Popes Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre, Barossa Valley, South Australia
COLDSTREAM HILLS Reserve Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Victoria
CORIOLE Lloyd Reserve Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia
CRAWFORD RIVER Riesling, Henty, Victoria
CRAIGLEE Shiraz, Sunbury, Victoria
D’ARENBERG The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, South Australia
DALWHINNIE Moonambel Shiraz, Pyrenees, Victoria
ELDERTON Command Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
FOX CREEK Reserve Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia
FREYCINET VINEYARDS Pinot Noir, East Coast Tasmania
GIACONDA Warner Vineyard Shiraz, Beechworth, Victoria
GROSSET Gaia Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc, Clare Valle,y South Australia
HARDYS Eileen Hardy Shiraz, South Australia
HENSCHKE Keyneton Euphonium Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon blend, Barossa, South Australia
HOWARD PARK Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon, Western Australia
JOHN DUVAL WINES Plexus Shiraz Grenache Mourvèdre, Barossa Valley, South Australia
KALLESKE Johann Georg Old Vine Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
KATNOOK ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia
KATNOOK ESTATE Prodigy Shiraz, Coonawarra, South Australia
KILIKANOON Oracle Shiraz, Clare Valley, South Australia
LAKE’S FOLLY Cabernets Cabernet blend, Hunter Valley, New South Wales
LAKE’S FOLLY Chardonnay, Hunter Valley, New South Wales
LANGMEIL The Freedom 1843 Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
LEEUWIN ESTATE Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia
LEO BURING Leonay Riesling, South Australia
LINDEMAN’S Limestone Ridge Vineyard Shiraz Cabernet, Coonawarra, South Australia
MAJELLA Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia
McWILLIAM’S Mount Pleasant Maurice O’Shea Shiraz, Hunter Valley, New South Wales
MOUNT LANGI GHIRAN Langi Shiraz, Grampians, Victoria
MOUNT MARY VINEYARD Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria
NOON WINERY Eclipse Grenache blend, McLaren Vale, South Australia
PARINGA ESTATE The Paringa Shiraz, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
PARKER COONAWARRA ESTATE First Growth Cabernet, Coonawarra, South Australia
PENFOLDS Bin 128 Shiraz, Coonawarra, South Australia
PENFOLDS Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, South Australia
PENFOLDS Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia
PENFOLDS Magill Estate Shiraz, Adelaide, South Australia
PETALUMA Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot, Coonawarra, South Australia
PETALUMA Hanlin Hill Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia
PEWSEY VALE The Contours Riesling, Eden Valley, South Australia
PRIMO ESTATE Joseph Moda Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, South Australia
ROLF BINDER Veritas Hanisch Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
SALLY’S PADDOCK Cabernet blend, Pyrenees, Victoria
SAVATERRE Chardonnay, Beechworth Victoria
SEPPELTSFIELD Para Liqueur Tawny, Barossa Valley, South Australia
ST HALLETT Old Block Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia
ST HUGO Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia
TIM ADAMS The Aberfeldy Shiraz, Clare Valley, South Australia
TORBRECK Descendant Shiraz Viognier, Barossa Valley, South Australia
TURKEY FLAT Shiraz, Barossa Valley, South Australia
TYRRELL’S Vat 47 Chardonnay, Hunter Valley, New South Wales
VASSE FELIX Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia
VOYAGER ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Margaret River, Western Australia
WANTIRNA ESTATE Amelia Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot, Yarra Valley, Victoria
WILD DUCK CREEK ESTATE Springflat Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria
WIRRA WIRRA RSW Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia
WOLF BLASS Black Label Cabernet Shiraz blend, South Australia
WOLF BLASS Platinum Shiraz, South Australia
WOODLANDS (family & friends) Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, South Australia
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE Michael Shiraz, Coonawarra, South Australia
YALUMBA The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia
YARRA YARRA VINEYARD The Yarra Yarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley Victoria
YARRA YERING Dry Red Wine No.1 Cabernet blend, Yarra Valley, Victoria
YERINGBERG Cabernet blend, Yarra Valley, Victoria
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